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Way UP North

in the land of the midnight sun (ok 24 hour) sets Inuvik, NWT, Canada https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk, NWT, Canada https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuktoyaktuk . ithtuksign  Tuk is 69 degrees N just barely above tree line which begins at 69 degrees N.  The contrast between these two cities and the rest of Canada is interesting because it seems that Inuvik is still in what I would think the 60’s were like, Tuk I feel is probably more like the 40s.  Just the vibe I got.

Inuvik most interesting quality is their sewer and water transport system called Utilidors.  The fact that due to the permafrost you can’t bury your utilities they are ran above ground. utilitor https://www.inuvik.ca/en/living-here/Water-Sewer-and-Utilities.asp   Speaking to the locals when they were kids they were also used as ways to get around town.  Some must still do it today as on the town’s website you should not walk or play on them. The original utilidors also carried hot water to heat homes.  Both Roy and I were intrigued by these tubes running all through the town.   The town is in the process of upgrading the system.  This Wikipedia article is full of interesting facts about the utilidors.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utility_tunnel#Arctic_towns I think it gives a unique flavor to the city.

town This picture shows the view of the town with a utilidor in the foreground.  If you ever thought there was no Walmart north of the artic circle we found the twin sister to those stores.  It is called Northmart and according to one local just like Walmart only more expensive and less quality (I cleaned this up).  The store itself even had a food court. northwalmartI guess when you have a captive audience. The town itself is still growing but like any struggling town you have your closed up businesses. One place everyone said to eat at was Alestine’s  I think every northern town has to have a restaurant that uses a bus somehow for a restaurant.  The food was great locally caught white fish and for desert a piece of tail (Eskimo Doughnut with hot fudge and honey) . bus2

The first night was the Roost which was a Chinese/Subway/Pizza joint all rolled into one.  I see a trend happening put everything you need under one roof.  Another example one of the gift stores doubles as the feed store. There does seem to be a disconnect with technology some places still have dial up internet. It seems to be untouched by Facebook, Twitter, and people obsessed by their cell phones. (unless you count the tourists). This is why Inuvik in my opinion is stuck in the 60s. I did take a few pictures of the marina inuvikm1 and where you used to dip your toes in the water and get your certificate.inuvikm2

The sign in this picture states do not leave boats unattended at the docks. Technically it’s not at the docks.

I do have to say Inuvik has lost some of the end of the road as far as you can go appeal because of the completion of the Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk Highway (ITH). ithsign This drive had so many vast views and you felt like you could see forever.  When we got to Tuk it was a strange feeling for me as I was truly at the end of land,  you walk out to the edge of land and there is nothing but water in front of you.  I’ve been to the Atlantic Ocean, and the Pacific Ocean but I can’t put words on how this was different but it was.  The Artic Ocean was at the top of the world maybe that was it. ithaome   I did not put my feet in the water just my fingers.  I have to say it was a tad chilly but warmer then I expected.  I had my winter hat on and just a sweat shirt, not too bad though.  The sense of accomplishment kept me warm. (ok my story). ithaos

The town itself was quieter then I thought it would be no cruise ship land tours yet.

We ate a restaurant called ‘End of the Road’ I think it was a converted industrial building, housed rooms upstairs, a small store, and a lunch room style restaurant.  Roy and I just had a burger.  We did not eat at Gramma’s Kitchen though.  I did stop at the Fur Place it was interesting because when you think of gift shop you think of a store front.  This was her house, it was actually her kitchen area.  There were shelves with local artists works available for sale.  She was working on a pair of mukluks, such intricate detail work.  I had noticed the amount of felt picture stories that are up for sale.  She explained to me that is how they tell a story, be it the northern lights to hunting polar bears.  Tuk felt untouched but I wonder how long it can stay un commercialized.    I bought a hand made leather ornament in the shape of a pingo.  It was enjoyable being able to talk to her about her culture and how she wants to share and pass down the traditions.  I then stopped at the visitor center in Tuk.ithvc  I was greeted by three friendly enthusiastic young adults.  I asked how they felt about all the tourists coming up this year.  They answered it gives them the ability to share their culture with the outside world.   It was well worth the trip to get here.  I thought you would like to see the cemetery, the reconstructed sod house, and a landscape.

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I have to say these two towns have become dear to my heart.

Souvenirs

I went shopping! I also saw things I will never forget, and learned about a culture that has piqued my curiousity since childhood. We spent about a week in Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk which is the farthest north you can drive in Canada. We arrived after a long wet day of travel and were welcomed to a needed break staying at the Happy Valley, free showers. viewcampFirst thing first we had to give the car and Lancelot a bath (or the important parts).

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I noticed right off how friendly everyone that we met were, the man who pumped our gas also helped to power wash some of the car. If you can picture me grabbing on to a whipping snake, you can understand why Roy and the other man took over. Some things I’m learning I know even with practice will be painful to watch. Then it was off to dinner at the local pizza, oriental, sandwich shop, called the Roost.

Plans have changed a little this trip mainly because of weather, which is all ok.  It allowed us to be able and explore the area.  I truly enjoyed learning about the igloo church https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Our_Lady_of_Victory_Church_(Inuvik) igloochurch1 and how it is one of the few buildings not built on pilings, because of the permafrost and ground shifting.  The most interesting part of the night I took the tour was the story behind the woman who after a hunting accident painted all of the paintings inside the church.

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I also stopped at the visitor’s center in Inuvik, where I learned about how Tuktoyaktuk is adapting and growing with the influx of visitors, since the road is now a year round road. The craving outside of the center was so detailed and I love the face. inuvikvc2        vc2

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I ended up buying a t-shirt, some handmade earrings, and stickers, plus I gained a ton of knowledge.  Inuvik was a nice place to rest after the trip up the Dempster.

2.5 Million Miles

That’s how many driving miles Roy has under his belt (adding professional and personal).  I am so thankful for this.  The second day on the Dempster started with a little drizzle not to much dust that’s a good thing.    I am looking forward to the drive back so I can see the sites that were in the clouds/fog on the way up.

We started off so we could miss the snow forecasted for Eagle Plains, our neighbors in the campsite we are at they got stuck at the ‘Welcome to the Northwest Territories’ sign for two nights due to weather.  We were probably the last car through before they closed the road due to weather.  I am jumping ahead but here are two videos taken during day two.

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That was the sign I will have a clearer picture of when we travel back on Saturday.

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This driving into one of the cloud banks.  I was very quiet during this part of the drive I was also thankful that Roy is a retired truck driver.  I have to admit it was spooky because there were a few spots where you could not see if there was a road.

Back to the beginning of day two; we encounter a bridge built by the Department of National Defense as a training exercise.  BTW it’s still in great condition .  We continue up the road and cross the artic circle.  Quick stop to check trailer and take a picture, before the mosquitoes carried me away (rain does not deter them). demp6  It was something I thought I would never get to cross.  I got to cross it three times in one day. (flat tire).  This is another reason I am so glad Roy loves to drive.

It cleared a tad and we came over a hill to the sight of white, thought it might have been snow.  It was actually a field of cotton weed.  Roy said it looks like q-tips on steroids’.  Will get pictures.  Shortly after the field of q-tips we hit a rock and experienced a Dempster Highway adventure our flat tire.   That will get the coverage it deserves in it’s own blog.  Fast forward 3 hours back up and running.  We hit the clouds and had some slickery going then our first experience on a ferry on a cable.  They pull you across it takes about 5 minutes.

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Our second ferry took a little longer and we ended up having to have boards put under so we didn’t bottom out, of course this was after they bent a rear stabilizer (oh well).

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The rest of the trip up the Dempster was pretty uneventful, did see a few loons. The best thing about day two, was watching Roy clean off some of the hard earned mud of the day.   demp7We only did the door, the hitch, the water heater vent, and the refrigerator vent.  All in all good safe travels with an experienced driver.  I am looking forward to the trip back to Eagle Plains, and Dawson City.

 

Mayberry RFD……. I mean

Eagle Plains.

Eagle Plains https://eagleplainshotel.ca/ is a unique place as it is the halfway point on the Dempster, was built a year before the highway was finished and is your one stop shop. Even though it’s just a gas station, hotel, rv park, restaurant, and bar it has town written all over it.

The day we got here was beautiful a little cold, a few mosquitoes so no big deal.  The first thing we did was catch up on the news for me at the bar that was.  We are to far north to get SirrusXM.  I was told Trump is still President, China is still being China, gas is still high, and Iran is Iran.  So, my comment was no news, his response was I just give the summary the tv gives the details.  I felt right at home definitely could pick the bar up and put it in the Northwoods of Wisconsin.  Asked about an RV spot next was told that would be Ericka’s job the bartender cool this place multi-tasks.  Ericka I found out she is known as the mouth of Eagle Plains.  She has the speeches down no question that I had went unanswered even the ones I didn’t have to ask. Side note the rv park had 15amp electric for $25 Canadian, plus my license plate number.

On to dinner,  we sat down about 6pm, because we just went to look at the site and come down to eat.  That was a good thing because we just beat the rush.  I wanted to jump back and help the girl in the kitchen she was so overwhelmed.  The food was good even if the wait for it was long.  It gave me an opportunity to meet my neighbors, brothers headed up to Tuk one from Utah and one from North Pole Alaska, had an interesting conversation about the road because they were on motorcycles.  (now that’s insane).

Speaking of motorcycles on the road after dinner we met a gravel surfer, complete with road rash.  He did not look to rough for wear but you could tell he was hurting.  I guess he had a tire issue which caused his bike to go do and him doing some traveling on his own.  The good thing is he did walk away.  I am finding advantages to combat camping is after dinner chats with your neighbors.  Eagle Plains being the halfway point we were the only ones heading up to Tuk the others were headed back to Dawson.  It was forecast to snow in Eagle Plains so we knew it would be an early morning for us.  The most interesting comment we heard was you will either love or hate Tuk, and you must put your toes in the ocean.  You bet I will.  Oh just to give you a heads up I enjoyed Eagle Plains I come back an extra time.

The Road Less Traveled

That is what they say the Dempster is. Located outside of Dawson City on Yukon Hwy 2 is Hwy 5 which turns into NWT 8 (NorthWest Territories) better known as the Dempster https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dempster_Highway .demp3 We started on Sunday 6/23/19 at 10:43am. Side note the car and trailer are amazingly clean, which changed soon after.dempstercleancar It took us a little less then an hour to reach the Tombstone Interpretive Center this is where we noticed are first change in the landscape. Roy was looking at the landscape and described broken rock face hills to the right that quickly changes to a smooth black polished look. I also got my first look at snow. Tundra frozen or not always look so lush.demp2 Driving along it was interesting how the trees turned to shrubs with an occasional tree.

As far as animals on or near the road they were few a bunny, marmot, and a crazy duck trying to cross the road. In some of the lakes we saw loons, and gulls. No real big animals, about 4 million little ones with wings and fangs. Oh wait, those were mosquitoes. 😅.

The funny thing about the mosquitoes is you think people are exaggerating there is no way they are that many. My thought was I can handle these guys, because the state bird of Wisconsin is the mosquito. So a word to the wise I am not exaggerating when I say wear chainmail. The other thing we noticed is they seem to be immune to all the usual repellents. I guess the caribou migration ended about two weeks ago. Maybe on the trip back to Dawson we might catch something.

Even if the animals are scarce the vistas  make up for some of it. Speaking of vistas the view from Ogilvie-Peel viewpoint demp5  you can see for 120 miles on a clear day which we had.demp4 Other interesting things we saw this first day were our first pingo, pingo an airstrip that we drove on (Ok it is the road that can be used by airplanes.), white flowers so dense it looks like snow on the ground, and of course snow. The one thing we did not see alot of on the road were cars.

The drive was extremely dusty because of the dry roads. Dust can be brushed or blown off except to keep the dust down you have trucks go through and spread water on the road. When you add water to dust you get guess what mud. So the trailer looked like it had been through a rain storm (BTW it did go through one on the 24th, more later.) Upon our arrival at Eagle Plains, Erica checked us in answered all my questions before I could ask them I think she must get the same questions over and over so she covers it all before she’s asked.  Check out my blog about Mayberry RFD oh I meant Eagle Plains.

 

Don’t Let the SUN Go Down on ME

I had to do it.  The sun did go down on 6/21/19 the summer solstice for about an hour.  I went up to experience it on Midnight Dome https://dawsoncity.ca/attraction/midnight-dome/ in Dawson City.  It was amazing here is a picture of me taken atdome1004 10:04 pm.  I have my sun glasses on my shirt because I am facing away from the sun, had to put them on when I turned around.  The views seemed to be even more breath taking then on a regular day.  Maybe it was all of the people also at the dome, or that it was the longest day of the year.

I caught the shuttle bus up to the dome, because I enjoy being a social butterfly.  (Who me?)  We are waiting for the shuttle and I start talking I was asked were we were headed I say Tuktoyaktuk NWT.  Sharon spoke up and said I would love it.  The 24 hour daylight and the culture in Tuk is amazing. The roads are good if you use common sense.  So I get on the bus and there’s room on the seat for me next to a couple and of course I ask if I can sit next to them because I don’t bite.  You know where that went.  🙂

Once at the top of the dome the views are spectacular of course.  You can even see TOW (top of the world highway) this is the road that takes you to Alaska. and is about 30 miles from the dome on a clear evening.  dome942  The road is on the right of the picture.  Here is a better picture that I took on a different day. top  Then I think my best photo of the night was of the up and down rainbow at about 10:42pmdome1042 You have to look hard .  It was a great night and I was getting tired and the crowd was getting rowdy.  I was waiting for the shuttle for awhile and watched a truck camper block the way up to the pick up area so I knew it would be a walk to catch it.  I want to give a shout out to the three people I hopped in their car for a ride down the hill.  Tonight felt like a safe night to do that. it was in the air.   So thank you Sunshine, Patrick, and I want to say Mary the driver?(I am bad with names).

Well we are off to the artic ocean so in about a week look for our continuing adventures.

I See Dead People

No one I know.  Like most of our adventures we do it then go get information on what we just saw.  That’s what happened with the Dawson City Cemeteries we saw.  One of the more interesting cemetery was the Police Cemetery still maintained by the RCMP today.  There are 18 graves dating from 1896 to 1936, constables and sgts. cem2 NW MP and RNW MP North West Mounted Police and the Royal North West Mounted Police before they became the RCMP.  Just interesting.

On this road there are 10 cemeteries a few are still active today.  Near the police cemetery is the Fraternal Order of Eagles Cemetery there 13 graves but only three with names you can make out.  The tombstones are made of wood. cem3

There is also a large monument behind the graves honor men who died in WWI.cem1  The other thing that was extremely interesting was seeing trees growing up the grave stones.cem4

Well worth stopping by the visitors center and taking the complete walking tour. https://dawsoncity.ca/plan-your-trip/visitors-centre-info/

Oh Those Views

dawsonview  This is the view from the Midnight Dome in Dawson City.  I am not sure why we did not do this drive last time we were here before.  I know we left it for something to discover.  We were able to check into the RV park 2 days early and just today we extended another day so we are back on schedule.  So Sunday we will be in Eagle Plains YT on the Dempster.

Even though we have not been gone that long it was good to drop the trailer and explore for a few days.  Unfortunately we have not run into any of the stars of Gold Rush https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gold_Rush_(TV_series) , still have a few more days.  We did get to see the barge that Tony B hauled the pieces of his dredge to Dawson City.  The Jasmine B.  jasmineb1When we were in line to take the ferry across the Yukon river to check out the paddlewheel graveyard Roy made a comment that maybe we could see Tony B’s barge.  Ask and it will happen.  Now all we need is more animal sightings I’ve been asking.  It was cool checking with the ferry worker to be sure it was the right barge.  He was funny, basically confirmed that every other word out of Tony’s mouth is F =$k this.  Though he is a good guy and his kids turned out right even though Tony works them hard.

Now onto the paddlewheel graveyard, https://dawsoncity.ca/attraction/paddlewheel-graveyard/ this is tucked on the shores of the river unfortunately it was over grown so I was able to only get the one paddlewheel right on the beach.  paddle1 Check out the short video.  Trying to find the place to get down on the beach took a little doing as it is not marked park here. The road to get there is in the Yukon River Campground.  The access to the beach involved going down a slight hill across a plywood plank so your feet didn’t get wet then walking about 1000 feet down the beach.  It was a nice walk and beautiful day.

Whenever you have to get across the river you take a free ferry, it runs 24×7 except for a few hours on Friday for maintenance. https://www.yukoninfo.com/dawson-city-yukon/the-george-black-ferry/ I would suggest not getting behind an RV caravan when trying to cross the ferry can only take a limited amount and certain weights.

I’ve enjoyed the extra days here now I’m off to the Midnight Dome to enjoy the solstice.  Almost 24 hours of daylight.  We get that early next week.

No Mayo

or ketchup or mustard. Leaving the Takhini Hot Springs campground https://yukoncampground.com after a night with a little rain and some mosquitoes we have a short jaunt up the Klondike to Pelly Crossing. I’ve blogged about the campground before but in short it’s secluded in the trees, reminds me of camping in nortern Wisconsin. The only thing is they have to truck in water so it is best to be self-contained, there is also a hostel if you don’t have a camper.

Back to the journey at hand. Filled up at Pelly Crossing got there early in the day so what was the decision, head on down the road. People who have traveled the Klondike now the campground is free but with no services. So scheduled stop scratched (this is all part of SOP camping) I am up for this. I do know first year not doing a stop I would have stressed, so I am getting better.

We then approached the junction of the Klondike (HWY 2) and the Silver Trail (HWY 11), no real place to camp. On to Mayo and a stop at the Bedrock RV park it was only 30 miles. Upon arrival at Mayo we find that the RV park with those three spaces and get the answer to why they did not answer the phone. Closed for season to renovate. Did I mention it was still raining on and off.

Well we decided to check out a Yukon Territorial Park down the road, because we still wanted to head to Keno, the next day. No go on the park to many mosquitoes, so we then decide to drive through Mayo and check out the town. Long story short we decided did not want to drop the trailer and head to Keno the next morning for a day trip.

If you are keeping track we just changed 3 nights of plans so what to do. Back to the Klondike and about 15 miles from the junction we decided to stop at Moose Creek Yukon Territorial Park for the night. Good choice, but, it is getting close to dinner got lucky and pulled into Moose Creek Lodge right before they closed.

These moose are out front of the restaurant we ate at. I’m thinking these might be the only ones we see. (slim on animals) We did see 2 black bears on the road to Mayo.

Bedding down for the night we were able to get the last pull through in the park. The $12 Canadian a night is good for no services. As a side note I recommend checking out government campgrounds. Here’s a link to the Yukon site http://www.env.gov.yk.ca/camping-parks this is how we plan on camping our way up the Dempster. You can also get free fire wood if there is not a burn ban.

The next morning we get up and make the 100 mile journey into Dawson City with the hope of checking in early. Got lucky and have had a great time exploring with the extra days. So SOP traveling is not that bad. I do wish there would have been meat in the Mayo sandwich.