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Hey Hey Hey Mike Mike Mike

It’s not hump day it’s Hay River.  Yes length of stay here was increased due to changing plans and road conditions.  This is ok though because we had an opportunity to experience a fish market, the Great Slave Lake beach, spent time at the visitor center and visited the museum.  Roy and I did drive to the town of Enterprise to see a Jamboree and then of course up and down roads looking for animals.

Hay River called the hub of the North https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hay_River,_Northwest_Territories is the terminus for the Railroad from here on up it travels on barges to reach the surrounding communities on the lake. So it does have a port, and an airport. hayairporthayboat I would say that it is a well rounded hard working town. We had just missed the train and some of the barges leaving that carried diesel fuel for the northern communities in the summer the barges transport enough fuel to keep all of the towns warm. This year might be a challenge as one of the railroad trestles had burned this summer and had just reopened.  The fact that the town lays on water they also have haycga Coast Guard Station and Rescue boats.hayflag

Everyone in town was so friendly and helpful that I could imagine me living here (ok if I was 20 years younger).  The visitor center told us the best place in town to have the local whitefish that come out of the lake is at Back Eddy, I can tell you they have real good ribs.  We got there and ready to order and was told no fish the fisherman was out of town.  The restaurant is on the second floor of a building with an elevator so Roy decided he would ride down in it.  I don’t think it had been used in awhile because the waitresses had to find the keys then figure out how to use it and see if it worked.  (BTW it was a little bigger then a closet).  It worked when they opened the door I told Roy he could ride down in the elevator I walked.  The funny part was we could hear them laughing all the way down.  So I still wasn’t going for a ride.

Another suggestion from the center was the fisherman market, Roy had it on the agenda. hayfarm1I did thanked them for the suggestion and let them think it was their idea. We did go back when it was going on Saturday.  I even got some homemade fudge exactly like my mom used to make reminded me of her and the holidays.  The market had a few food vendors selling breakfast which we ate before we came silly us.  hayfarm2A few crafters of yarn and soaps, a couple of veggie sellers, and the fudge lady who also made some homemade pies.  Roy and I enjoyed the lemon meringue pie. It is a meeting place for the whole community.

After the market we drove around the corner to visit the Hay River Heritage Center.  haymus3This is where I heard from a book of course the whooping crane call.  This is so I can recognize it in the wild.  The grounds featured an ice cream shop did not stop in as it was 60 too cold for ice cream.  haymus2A few old boats, plus an old fire truck.

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The tanker cars in the background are not part of the museum but they do carry some of the diesel up to the north as I mentioned earlier.  In the Territories and I think through most of Canada there is much emphasis put on preserving the culture of the Indigenous People.

The part of this adventure I am enjoying is one place you go leads to another place to explore.  So we visited the public beach on our way to the jamboree in Enterprise.  Great Slave Lake https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Slave_Lake has sandy beaches here in Hay River haybeach seeing the vastness of the lake is awe inspiring. I was told that the beaches on the other side of the lake near Yellowknife are rocky I’m looking forward to comparing the two.  hayjam2So we decide to head to a jamboree sounds interesting I have noticed people still love to get together for any reason to enjoy music food and good times. hayjam You also never know what you will see decorating a driveway when you go exploring. haymin    Please can someone show Roy where the Ketchup is he found the Muster sign.muster

The Falls

Not my falls although I could write a blog or two about those.  No the waterfalls that are around Hay River NWT. It is actually a route that you can travel in the Northwest Territories. https://www.nwtparks.ca/explore/waterfalls-route . When we did this route on Friday I was also dodging rain drops.  I got a few pictures using the landscape lens. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexandra_Falls  It was also really cold but that is what coats are for :). dehpark When I was walking up from the parking lot and could hear the rushing water but could not see it, wfparkI was amazed when the sound matched the force of the water. alexandrafalls1 I met two locals ok from Yellowknife and told them I’m here to photograph the northern lights.  Back to the Falls.  alexandrafalls2The locals did tell me that the water was a little low but should increase due to all the rain. These falls are on the Hay River and was a short side trip from Hay River.  The water drops 109 feet over the cliff to create the roar.  Alexandra Falls does have a twin on this river it is called Louise Falls, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louise_Falls and it is a three tiered falls.  There was a short trail (1.9 mile) I could have walked to but I opted to have Roy drive me.  Less then a mile down the road is the turnoff for the falls.  This falls only drops 50 feet.  I get to the over look and was a little disappointed because there was supposed to be a spiral staircase that you could go down to get a closer look.  louisefallsI did get a look from the first over look before it started to rain again. Unfortunately you do not get the full few from the top look out.

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So I grabbed my camera and headed back to the car. Up the road is another waterfall that is just a day use park McNallie Creek https://www.nwtparks.ca/explore/waterfalls-route/mcnallie-creek mcnalliefalls

This is an interesting side trip to a falls, at the visitor center in Hay River the woman told me that locals would jump off the edge of the falls when she was growing up.  The other thing is that these falls just go into the big hole she called it a sink hole. My funny thought was after seeing Louise and Alexandra Falls was you need to grow up.

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It was here I met a couple who had just come from Louise Falls and I said so did I and was disappointed I could find the steps.  I was up to a spiral staircase.  So they explained how to find it, after a quick thought I decided lets go for it. (Roy loves to drive).  Back at Louise Falls after driving through some rain then into some blue skies I’m thinking great there is a chance.  Ok, I have depth perception issues so once I get to the steps down I see it’s a very tight spiral staircase and the trees are extremely close on the way down.  In the back of my mind I’m thinking this older couple did it I can too.  Then logic took over the last time I did something because someone else did I came home on crutches from a sky trip. (I was 12 but still).  So I decide to go back to the look out and even though I am practicing with the landscape lens I still love to use my 150mm – 600mm to zoom in on things.  I head back to the car again to grab it.  Mother Nature had other plans because right before I got back to the car it starts to rain.  I got wet but made sure the cameras stayed dry.  So I’m so thankful logic took over or I still might be sitting on a step on that spiral staircase.  I will have an opportunity to check out Lady Evelyn Falls as we are spending time there on the way to Yellowknife.

Our First Rodeo??

It was especially involving ATVs, cowboys, cowgirls, and a tractor.  This year it has been all about taking the different road.  After having to change plans again due to road issues we end up on AB64 (short cut).  The road was a good conditioned paved back road with 10% grades up and down through lush agriculture no flat Alberta here.  We ended up here because the road and area we were headed towards had some mud and construction issues an excuse to come back next year.

After spending the last day at Toad River adjusting travel plans we decide to do 850 miles in three days. The first night we spent boon docking on the side of the road. roadside The next morning we get up going stop at the only restaurant in 80 miles. After breakfast we leave and run into things headed across the road  we slow down and discover this.  cow1No they were not running wild it was a modern day cattle drive.  (with ATVs).  So we fell in behind and alongside to enjoy the craziness.  cow2The tractor was carrying a huge round bale of hay which I assume is the feed.  We watch them cross the road and split up the herd.

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We were both amazed at the use of ATVs but not one horse was used and instead of whips to get them away from the gate and back on the road to go to the next gate they used pool noodles to make noise in the air to steer them.  We stayed behind them until they reached the second pasture and got back off the road.  Growing up in Wisconsin the dairy cows stayed on the farm.  There were quite a few babies in the group of cattle and the calves were sticking close to mom.  The other unique thing was you would have a cow that was like a traffic cop, stand still and just make a bellow sound as if to say hurry up, move your butt. I was glad though when this traffic finally MOOOOOOOOOOOOVED Along.

So even though we’ve changed  the roads we still are finding adventures and sights that we would have missed if everything went as planned.

Good Vibes

keep the animal vibes coming.  When we left Watson Lake the animal count was pretty slim.  So I asked for good vibes to be sent my way.  Thank you and please keep them coming.  We have seen wood bison, a caribou, a swan family, elk, deer, and a couple of playful bears.

What is a stop at Watson Lake without a picture of the sign post forest. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sign_Post_Forest  It has gotten so big the visitors center had to move out of their building. signpost1signpost2 These pictures are just the outskirts of the forest, there are over 80,000 signs now.  While I was taken the pictures of the sign post forest Roy was taking pictures of ravens eating lunch. bird3 I am so glad we have seen a few more animals now, bird2I am not a big ravens fan (football team either).

Heading down the road just a little ways outside of Watson Lake we get our first look at some wildlife of course on the other side of the road in the ditch but you could still see them.  Yes, two cubs bear1bear2still getting along with each other.  Yes I know it looks like they are biting each other but they are just playing :).  It was cool seeing two of the same type of animal at the same time.  A little further down the road we were treated to about sixty wood bison on the road, biscthe side of the road,bise and a few playing in the dust bowl.   I know there even seemed to be some romance possibly in the dust hole.  Judge for yourself bisdI know there was sniffing.  I was enjoying stopping and watching then moving on just to see some more bison about ten miles down the road.  Here we had some scratching, and standing in the middle of the road.  The cutest thing was we had pulled over near the shoulder of the road and a calf who was just growing some horns was trying to sound tough by snorting and looking at us like hey you scared you better be because I’m tough.  bisbCheck the look out on his face. I was amazed at how many calves were spread between the two groups of animals.  I think in all the times we’ve seen bison or buffalos that between the two groups it is the largest number.

We stopped at the 60th parallel north https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/60th_parallel_north . 60thWe will be crossing it again when we leave the Northwest Territories after Yellowknife.  We did not see anymore animals until we got to Toad River Lodge toadcg where we set up camp in site 14 which has an awesome view of the lake. Here I was treated to a family of swans.  Even though the cygnets are grey these guys were still regel.  2swanbabyThe male swan, called the cob, helps the female, known as a pen, to look after their babies, called cygnets until they are a year old. swanbabThe young don’t spend more than one day in the nest once they hatch. 3swansbaby

After we left Toad River we encountered a caribou who thought he owned the road.  We slow down to get beside him because he is on the side of the road, well he thinks it’s a game.  He decided to walk in front of the car then zig zag slowly kinda like you need to drive slow you want to see me.  I will post the video of this soon for know here’s the picture. booMike who is the other half of Cindy a couple from Fort Collins CO we met at Toad River had to go to Fort Nelson and he told a very similar story.  So I think it might have been the same one.  Speaking of Cindy and Mike The first night we were in Toad River I start talking to the couple at the next table and ask where they are from and which way they are headed.  I could tell that this was their first trip to Alaska and they were headed home.  You get the I’m hooked look in the eyes.  They were stuck in Toad for a few days because they had an issue with the steering on the truck, so explains why Mike had to go to town.  The cool thing was is there are still people out there ready to lend a hand so they were able to get it fixed.  I enjoyed hearing about what they liked about Alaska and how they had to see everything.  I hope they return and stay longer in spots they enjoyed.  I also got the opportunity to show Cindy some of my pictures including the mega moose from a couple of years ago. (They said they haven’t seen any large moose.)  Speaking of moose that is one animal we have yet to see this trip.  We saw elk and a few deer today but were not able to get a picture.  I am hoping that we do see one so keep sending your good animal vibes.

Crossed Over

Today we crossed over the Continental Divide even had signage to go with the event. divideThe spot we were at today is the lowest point of the divide the water shed is separated by just a small hump of sand and gravel.  Could you imagine being a stick that broke and one half ends up in the Arctic Ocean and the other half ended up in the Pacific Ocean (Bering Sea), you would never cross paths again.  Yes, sometimes I have random thoughts like that. divide1

We are at the Watson Lake Provincial Park got a spot very near to the water Roy even walked down to it.  I was out practicing more landscapes. divide2Today is probably the last day for cell phones and internet for about a week or two as we are headed to Toad River Lodge in BC Canada https://toadriverlodge.com/ .  I will have cable and full hook-ups though. We are also coming to an area that we have not traveled before so I am getting excited.  I know there is more dirt roads in the near future but I have the packing figured out as to minimize dust and jarring.  So one more thing I learned from traveling the Dempster.

I will hopefully have pictures of many animals in the near future as we are going to be visiting Wood Buffalo National Park. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_Buffalo_National_Park

So I will be thinking of you guys while Roy and I are exploring.

Say IT ISN’T So

August 1st.  Wow, we have a little over a month left on the trip.  It seems the longer we decide to be on the road the faster it flies by.  This has been a strange year with the fires, the lack of animal sightings, the flat tires.  The result of all of those things is an appreciation for every trip and the fact that every trip is different.  I think we have had more unplanned down time which allows us to explore more.

These mosquitoes maybe metal sculptures but I can tell you they are life size.  This is outside the visitor center at Delta Junction the end of the AlCan. mosquitoOur last night in Alaska we stayed at Tok River State Recreational Area right outside of Tok.  River front property very quiet park, great end to this part of the trip. tokcamp2 tokcamp4

I may be weird but I do love playing tacky tourist when it comes to signs.  yukonsignThis was the case with the 141st Meridian https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/141st_meridian_west this is also the border between Canada and the US state of Alaska. bordakyb

Tonight we decided to drive into Whitehorse YT to the farmers market mark5 and to eat at “Klondike Ribs & Salmon” https://www.klondikerib.com/  At the market I caught one of the volunteers munching on a carrot she really gets into her role. https://fireweedmarket.ca I maybe should have warned her I was taking a picture, but there is no fun in that.  I do have to say when we’ve wanted to get out and explore the areas the crowds and the weather have been good. (not to crowded or hot).  This market had a concentration of food trucks but no snacking cause we did not want to spoil dinner. Here’s a sampling of the booths and crowds.mark1mark6mark2 One booth that held an interest for me was the CPAWS (Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society) which is a  group striving to promote and protect Canada’s wild animals. https://cpawsyukon.org/ Right now they are focusing on the Porcupine Caribou herd and the breeding grounds.  I had a interesting discussion and even bought a t-shirt to help the cause. mark4

At the restaurant we indulged in Elk Carpaccio this was extremely good and not spicy or greasy.  I had my standby of halibut fish n chips, Roy had the house specialty BBQ Ribs and salmon. I can say when we travel we do eat very well.  klon1The funny thing is we always have enough left over for at least one or sometimes two more meals.  klon2On a side note we also because of being off the beaten path have been using the kitchen in our Lance more.

Our journey is now turning to the northern lights and the process of getting there.  I am looking forward to experimenting with photographing these and hopefully sharing some of these shots.

Still More Trippin

Day Tripping I mean. So we had to make a stop to see Santa while we spent so much time in Fairbanks the Noth Pole and Santa’s Workshop is only about 15 miles down the road. It also gave us good reason to get some fudge. i believe that the North Pole has one of the best fudge I’ve ever tasted. npolesh1 This is another place we visited a few times while in Fairbanks. North Pole does have a Chinese restaurant I even liked called Pagoda we ate there twice and had enough for 4 more meals. Enough about food, back to Christmas. Since we were here last they still do not have the RV Park up and running again it looks like that is something that will never come back. npolesantaThey did add on to the building which is a good thing because it was cramped, now you can really begin to want to shop instead of just taking a quick look and run.

About shopping they have a Dept56 Christmas village on display with some retired pieces for sale. (I refrained from buying any). Chevy Chase’s Christmas Vacation house was available but we passed not enough lights. I bought our yearly dated Christmas Ornament and of course a t-shirt. npolesantEnough shopping onto sight seeing. The Post Office gets in on all the sugar sweetness of candy canes outside of the building. npolepoIf you look closely you will see there is snow on the Police Car lettering. npolecop npolesignI enjoy visiting the North Pole and sharing some Christmas Spirit with everyone. BTW Christmas is less then 5 months away if you are counting.

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Another side trip we took was to Nenana Alaska close to Banana but not close enough. We are still on the quest for the ‘HOLY BANANA’. Nenana had a native craft bazaar where you could talk to the artisans and find out how they made the trinkets. This town is also a stop for the all familiar tour buses. There were 2 at one time at opposite ends of town. Speaking of town this has been the first checkpoint for the Iditarod several years, parks4 that would be fascinating to hear all of the barking dogs and excitement. The other excitement that the locals look to is the ice break up on the Tanana river. Lots of money can be won if you can guess the exact day – hour – minute – second this happens. They are already selling tickets for the ice break-up in 2020. parks3That black and white metal stanchion has a clock which stops when the ice breaks. I had to include a picture of the gift store in town because it is ‘The Road Less Traveled’ which is the unofficial theme of this year’s trip. parks1

 

Speaking of gift stores this is one that is halfway between  Fairbanks and Denali I’m just saying it was pretty skinny. skinny

I am glad I never got stationed at Fort Wainwright ftwainsign because winter travel in these would have been an adventure. snowtank

Speaking of adventure, on the 30th of July we enter Canada for the last time this trip and meander over to Yellowknife for a glimpse of the northern lights late August.

Day Tripping

We didn’t get a chance to do the Dalton or spend time in Chena Hot Springs or even boondock in Manley Hot Springs we did take some interesting day trips around the area. I have seen Ospreys, log cabins, native crafts, Sand Hill Cranes, baseball games and pipelines.

I did get the opportunity to watch an osprey bring a fish to it’s mate and then the mate bringing the fish home to the nest. https://en.wikipedosprey6ia.org/wiki/Osprey We came back a second time to get these pictures.

It was also amazing to see the interactions between both adult birds.  The one who brought the fish in also took the remainder of the fish with it when it left.  We noticed the nest on our first drive up the Steese so of course I had to come back to see if I could get more pictures, the cool thing is I did.  The second trip up was rainy and there was a bike race going on, so more traffic then normal.  Like a good mom she did keep her chick as dry as possible during the downpour. Mosprey4fishost of the pictures are from behind as I thought I could get closer with my camera on the other side of the nest.  It was about this time that the second bird decided to fly in with a fish.  Watching the osprey feeding the chick was impressive. osprey5

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On the way up to the nest Roy found a dirt road.  It did have a sign F.E. Corp Gold Camp it was closed but we drove up to check it out anyway.  It loogoldcamp2ks like it might be opening soon a lot of remodeling there was some old mining equipment on the grounds check it out. goldcamp3 It’s funny what you can find on a dirt road.  I need to be more trusting when Roy takes those dirt and gravel roads. goldcamp1

Heading up to the Steese we stopped by the pipeline. Which in itself is an amazing engineering feat.  oilpipeline2https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trans-Alaska_Pipeline_System I look extremely small next to the pipeline.  There is aoil2 pull off that shows the inside of the pipeline with what they call a pig that travels through oilpigthe pipeline and keeps it clean.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pigging oilpig2

Another  thing is the stickers people have put on the warning sign that tells people not to climb on it the pipeline.oilpipeline  I also did not know some of the facts on the information board, the pipeline has 12 pumping stations and is 800 miles long just to name two facts.

We drove around Fairbanks and found ourselves at the train depot.  The train was not in but I was able to get photos of the depot.   train2train1

 

 

 

 

 

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We also had time to visit North Pole Alaska and Nenana Alaska while we were here too. Pictures are on the way.

Living Large

that is what the animals do at Fairbanks Large Animal Research Station.  I decided to live large here twice.  I never thought I would see muskox let alone see them eat lars11or see babies (6 born this year). https://lars4http://www.uaf.edu/lars/ The muskox are not good parents in captivity because food is plenty and there are no predators, because of this the babies are usually separated from the moms to be bottled fed. The two babies in the pen though have stayed with their moms because the two females are really good moms.   The animals aren’t trained but they are exposed to some human interaction so they are not totally stressed out when they have to have contact for research and to check the health of the herd. I will say that the tour guides have been trained by the animals, on the flip side especially Casey.  The presentation involves showing how the animals eat, this is done by allowing them to eat willow branches which is high in copper.  The greens you see in the pictures are actually fireweed due to the fact that the willow leaves are not in season now.  I think these animals will eat anything, when they are in the stantions  for the qiviut deshedding or vet checks they are bribed with cheerios.  If Casey doesn’t get her snacks quick enough she will do a paw dance on the fence to get the attention of the guide.  lars10lars3Even though they seem like docile animals there is always a chance the switch could flip in the animal’s brain and they start to act like the wild animals that they are.  So she does stress that some distance is very wise.  At the end of the tour she shows a stantion that is damaged due to an incident where the switch was flipped. The person who was in the stantion was not hurt.

These animals are built for the artic that is a definite.  I am amazed at the fact that in the winter the amount of heat loss that occurs is very slim.  Can you imagine standing outside in 40 below and being perfectly warm.  The reason they can do this is they have hair in the mouth, eyelids, when they close both it allows nothing in and the fact that their nostrils have extra chambers to warm the air before it enters the lungs. The tubes you see in the picture lars12 is the warming chambers inside the nose Another adaptation these animals have for winter survival is the fact that under the hair is a soft down called qiviut or underwool.  https://www.uaf.edu/lars/qiviut/ It is like having a down coat or insulated underwear on.  The tour guide Christine has a cowl made from the qiviut that is spun into yarn then knitted or crocheted.  She does not even think about wearing it until it is at least 10 below. I can tell you I did not buy any yarn or cowls they were selling in the store.  I would never ever be able to wear the article had I bought it.  The qiviut from the muskox at the facility is harvested then turned into yarn so the they can sell the yarn and products in the store and the proceeds go back into LARS. lars1On a side note I did buy a t-shirt and a headband, neither of which were made of qiviut.

I also learned that once the muskox horns stop growing if one breaks you end up with a one horned muskox lars8 or an unicorn impersonator.

I like to believe that it is an unicorn.  My story is all I’m saying.  Losing a horn in the wild can be deadly at the station you just get separated.  In the wild the horns are sharp and pointed but at the station the horns after they stop growing the tips are ground down for everyone’s protection. Seeing the difference between the male and female skulls just proves to me that males are truly hard headed. lars5You have to be if you want to be king of the hill during rutting season.  Even though the males do not have to rut to be king of the hill because the station is in charge of saying who gets to be king of the hill and who is in whose harem.  That was a rabbit hole I went on because of a male’s hard head.

At Lars they also have Reindeer which are not domesticated Caribou contrary to popular belief. http://news.uaf.edu/news/featured/04/reindeer/difference.html follow the link to learn more about the differences.  Female reindeer have larger antlers then female caribou, male reindeer have smaller antlers then male caribou.  These are a set of caribou antlers larscar The inteesting thing about antlers is they fall off every year unlike the horns on the muskox.  These reindeer are being feed just like the muskox were, on my first visit the reindeer were all up in the guides back going give me the treats now.  The second visit she basically had to ignore them after she put the fireweed in the fence. I guess they are not trained.  Here you can see she is ignoring lars6 the reindeer and she is trying to get the guides attention.  The second tour once the reindeer realized there were good treats at the fence they gladly ate the fireweed. lars9

It was so enjoyable seeing the interaction between the animals, guides, and the tour groups.  I am also happy that they provided a golf cart that allowed Roy to also enjoy the tour the first time and gave me a chance to come back and do the tour again.  If you are ever in Fairbanks this is off the beaten path but well worth it.